Current Pics as of 3/28/18:
12″ LED Light Bar
Everyone knows the stock lights on these Xs suck ass. I really didn’t want to spend the money on an expensive HID setup though, so I decide to hack together a cheaper solution. I had an extra 12″ red LED light bar left over from a replacement of a defective one I mounted on my quads (2001/2003 Suzuki LTZ 400’s – see page). I set this up to run off the stock battery and still using the stock stator.
I mounted the light bar using some 52″ light bar mounting brackets to the bar clamps, also using longer bolts to ensure the bar clamps stayed tight.
I then used some old light bar wiring harness wire to run the power straight to the stock battery, and mounted the power switch up under the number plate. I keep it disconnected until I need the light, then I just connect the power switch (it has a red/green LED light on the switch that is always on showing if the light is on or off – I keep it disconnected as to not drain the battery when not in use).
This works perfectly for now, gives me a TON of light in the desert at night, and works fine with my stock battery and stator. Eventually I’ll wire it better into the electrical system once I get my brother at RaceTech Electric to wind me a custom higher output stator. For now, works great, and total cost ~$40!
- Light Bar & wiring harness: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K9YS9QS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Acerbis 4.1 Gal Fuel Tank
I picked up this used Acerbis 4.1 gal tank off craigslist for $150, a hell of a deal! However, Acerbis does not share the installation instructions on their website. The only part that isn’t really straightforward is how to plumb the two petcocks on the side shrouds. With a post on ADVrider and some research I was able to figure it out.
You reuse the stock fuel filter and fuel lines and petcock from your original tank. This just attaches to the Acerbis tank with the 2 stock screws up under the bottom. You also need to pull off the neck mounting bracket from the stock tank and reuse that. It also uses 2 longer bolts that screw into the stock frame mounting brackets that the stock tank shrouds used. These longer bolts came with the tank.
Now for the only complicated part – the fuel line plumbing. Although it seemed counter intuitive to me, the two side shroud petcocks plumb into the fuel lines similarly to these instructions I found for the IMS 4 gal tank:
You need to buy the following hardware:
- 2 brass 1/4″ T fittings
- ~ 3′ of 1/4″ fuel line
You run one section of fuel line from the right side petcock, over in front of the valve cover/head and over in front of the petcock. You run a short section of fuel line from the left side petcock and connect it to the right side line with one of the T fittings. Then measure and cut a piece of fuel line from the petcock to the carb outlet. Cut this in half and mount the other T fitting. Then connect the two T fittings with a short piece of fuel line. Use hose clamps to tighten everything up. Here is what it should look like:
The only thing that seemed odd about this to me was that you are running the two shroud petcock’s fuel into the fuel line between the main petcock and the carburetor. I thought this was odd because I wanted to run the line in BEFORE the main petcock so I could shut off all the fuel flow at once. However, both side shroud petcocks have their own shut off valves, so I suppose you just shut them off there as well. This still gives you the main/reserve of the center section of the tank, and then I guess a sort of reserve on both shroud sides of the tank. With 4 gallons, you can go for miles!
Total cost ~$10